Food that goes on bagels. It has a special name and a special place in the heart of the Jewish community. It’s “appetizing,” a New York tradition that originated with the arrival of Jewish immigrants to the United States at the end of the 19th century.

What is appetizing? 

Don’t get confused by the grammar—“appetizing” functions as a noun, and encompasses an activity. It’s a gathering of friends, family, and community members together to eat a variety of ready-to-eat foods, often in an open-face sandwich format. Think of a bustling brunch buffet where smoked and brined foods are the stars of the show.

What are appetizing foods?

Bread products form the base of the appetizing experience. Rye, challah, bialys, and—of course—bagels are all common breads used for appetizing. The rest of the table is covered with the toppings. Smoky, tangy, salty, creamy! The variety of tastes and textures that adorn the choice of bread traditionally include dairy and non-meat (aka parve) offerings. According to Jewish dietary laws, meat shouldn’t be eaten together with fish or milk products, so appetizing is usually meat-free. Lox and whitefish are staples, and pickled herring often makes an appearance.

A trip to the appetizing store

In the early 1900’s, New York was filled with stores that sold goods specifically for the purpose of appetizing. These “appetizing stores” sold dairy and parve products like fish, and were the complement to Kosher meat delicatessens. Nowadays, there are only a dozen or so of these old-world shops.